Amanda Rivkin

Post-Racial America Road Trip

Four years ago, when Barack Obama was first elected president of the United States, I was beginning my career as a freelance photojournalist in Chicago, photographing national politics, the financial crisis, and other social issues across the Midwest region of the United States. Four years later, Obama won reelection and so four years later, I returned to the American road, this time traversing the American South to discover if one part of the promise of Obama’s presidency, that of a post-racial America is upon us, and to witness whether the dream of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. is alive in our time.

American identity is never frozen; the moment we begin to define it is when it exists only in our minds and memories, an entity incompatible with the slow and perpetual changes constantly occurring. Racial progress is like any American progress, something we can speak of only in increments. It is not so long and buried in our past the days when black men were considered to be three-fifths of a person (to say nothing of the low value placed on the lives of black women) and slavery ended, valuing human lives spent in shackles doing forced labor at the worth of forty acres and a mule. It is no coincidence that one bail bond advertisement by the order window of a restaurant in Nashville, Tennessee advertised with the slogan “free at last!”

Are we, if we believe we are only, in the words of Phil Ochs, “as free as the padlocked prison door,” and “only as rich as the poorest of the land”? In the Mississippi Delta, the native soil of the most American of music, the blues, from which jazz and rock and roll later evolved, the social problems plaguing the broader American landscape – the endemic poverty, racism and its consequences: the lack of access to good schools and health care – come to the fore. The color lines are everywhere, though, and not only in the South; but they are also dissolving. Sheikh Ossama Bahloul, the imam at the controversial Murfreesboro Islamic Center where Muslim-hating protesters attracted the attention of the international media and an arsonists made an attempt once, understood those who opposed him to be “sweet and innocent”. Becoming American is more possible than anything else, he said. And besides, the constitution is clear, he said. And so his center stands.

PETERSBURG, KENTUCKY.  Members of a Mennonite family are seen riding a dinosaur with a saddle inside the Creation Museum on January 3, 2013.  The Creation Museum teaches the difference between "man's law" and "god's law," disputing evolution, evolutionary science and other teachings that eschew the Bible.
  
MURFREESBORO, TENNESSEE.  Muslim men are seen during Friday evening prayers at the Islamic Center on January 4, 2012.
  
NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE.  Customers are seen at a Waffle House on January 4, 2012.
     
  
MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE.  Visitors are seen at Elvis Presley's grave by the pool at Graceland on January 6, 2012.
  
MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE.  A band is seen performing the blues at the Blues Hall Juke Joint on Beale Street on January 5, 2012.
  
CLARKSDALE, MISSISSIPPI.  A stop sign with "Obama" written underneath on January 6, 2012.
     
  
CLEVELAND, MISSISSIPPI.  A man rides his bike near Delta State University on January 7, 2013.
  
INDIANOLA, MISSISSIPPI.  A woman is seen driving with home made Christian decals on her vehicle on January 7, 2013.
  
TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA.  University of Alabama football fans are seen during the College Football Bowl Championship Series, BCS, final at Innisfree Irish Pub in downtown on January 7, 2013.  Alabama beat Notre Dame 42-14.
     
  
TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA.  University of Alabama football fans are seen during the College Football Bowl Championship Series, BCS, final at The Copper Top bar on The Strip in downtown on January 7, 2013. Alabama beat Notre Dame 42-14; in July, someone fired shots into the bar injuring 17 people.
  
BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA.  Customers are seen at a Hooters on January 8, 2013.
  
NEAR GRADY, MISSISSIPPI.  A sheriff is seen outside a house fire on January 7, 2013.
     
  
OCEAN SPRINGS, MISSISSIPPI.  A woman is seen beside a framed portrait of a child beauty pageant contestant on the wall at the TatoNut coffee and doughnut shop on January 9, 2013.
  
NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA.  Waitresses are seen on a break at Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter on January 11, 2013.
  
NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA.   chef and a waiter are seen at work in the kitchen of Commander's Palace in the Garden District on January 10, 2013.
     
  
NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA.  A jazz performance at The Spotted Cat on Frenchman Street on January 10, 2013.
  
BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA.  A Never Forget September 11 billboard is seen beside a Budweiser plant on January 11, 2013.
  
GROSSE TETE, LOUISIANA.  A handmade sign is seen beside the road with anti-Islam, right wing messages on January 11, 2013.
     
  
BETWEEN PORT BOLIVAR AND GALVESTON, TEXAS.  A ship is seen on the bay on January 11, 2013.
  
GALVESTON, TEXAS.  Courtney Leigh celebrates her 12th birthday at the Tortuga restaurant on January 11, 2013.
  
KINGWOOD, TEXAS.  Two girls are seen sharing a ride on a bicycle on January 11, 2013.
     
  
BETWEEN HOUSTON AND AUSTIN, TEXAS.  Signs announce Guns and Ammo beside the highway on January 11, 2013.
  
BETWEEN HOUSTON AND AUSTIN, TEXAS.  The highway is seen at dusk on January 11, 2013.